Cheers, Rwanda


24 May 2010

Amahoro

Saturday was just nice. In the morning we were going to go to an orphanage, but those plans changed. Instead, we visited Amani Ya Juu, a place where women make things like clothes, bags, jewelry, etc., and sell it. They actually have a store in Washington, D.C. The women make such beautiful items. I spoke with Merabu, who was sewing a laptop case. She knew little English and I know zero Kinyarwanda, so we compromised with French, which was quite adequate. She is lovely. Blake explained to Grace, the lady who showed us around, how to say ‘okey-dokey.’ Some from our team were in the backyard lifting this sort of dumbbell thing, and a guy from the next house over peered over the fence and had his and started lifting it. We attract attention so easily.

Then we went back to the first market. Those of us who didn’t want to shop stayed outside and Emily brought out her instant camera again. We took a picture of some of the women there, and they were very excited, and then they got to keep the photo. People were crowding around, looking and squeezing in to see the photograph. Something I love about this culture is how much they touch each other and just spend time together – life is so communal and people aren’t all trying to escape and have their ‘me’ time. I was standing near one woman with a baby, and I touched the baby and patted/hugged the woman, and she looked so joyful after that. I said nothing to her but ‘au revoir,’ but it was as if I had said, “We are friends. I am not too good for you. You are valued.” Which I know is what God wants her to know.

Next, we had lunch at the residence of the South African ambassador. I met him; he’s great, he danced, he smiled, he told us to try his wine (which we did not, heeding Baylor restrictions). There was food from all over the world, and each country had a table. We could just take whatever we wanted off of it. I had food from the Middle East, African countries, Italy, Japan, etc. There was an American table with hamburgers, hotdogs, and chocolate chip cookies. Of course.

Towards the end of the event, some kids came and danced for us, and they were precious. Then the ambassador spoke for a bit. The event was to raise money for a Rwandan charity. In closing, the South African dignitaries or officials or people of some importance came to the front and all joined in an awesome line dance reminiscent of the electric slide. Why does this not happen in the United States? The party was such a blend of different people from all over, speaking different languages and looking very different, naturally. It was lovely to see all those people together. Except that the music was all American stuff, which seemed unnecessary. :)

Outside the gates of the residence, kids asked us for money. What a contrast that was – there were children at the party running around, completely comfortable, full, and without a thing to worry about. On the other side is dirt, hunger, and poverty. I’m still trying to figure out what to do with that.

Our last outing of the day was to attend a football match. Real football, that is. We were planning on finding a field somewhere and just starting to play and see if people came. Instead, we actually went to the Amahoro (“peace”) stadium and watched Rwandan teams play teams from other countries. First was Rwanda Rayon S. versus Tanzania’s Mafunzo – we won 3-0. [We is of course Rwanda] Horns were blaring, flares were lit, and it was very exciting. We were some of the only muzungu in the place, and definitely even fewer of us were some of the only females there. We got fantastic seats, right at the bottom of the bleachers…basically front row.
The second match (one ticket is good for however long you want to stay!) was a bit more controversial from the start. Rwanda APR (Armée Patriotique Rwandaise, Rwandan Patriotic Army) played Democratic Republic of Congo TP Mazembe. (TP = Tout Puissant, All-Powerful). This is a big deal because Congo last year won the national championship. Said a fellow watcher, “We expect this to be a very interesting match.” In the stands on the other side of the field was the African equivalent of the Bear Pit – family members of the players were all in one section and they were constantly cheering.

The game started out well, and I noticed that some of the guys in our group were really getting into it, booing and cheering and standing up in indignation and waving flags, etc. We had just as much Rwandan patriotism as the locals, I think. That was the biggest sports event I’ve ever attended, barring Baylor football games. But in this case I wanted to stay for the whole thing and I also understood it.

Then something went a bit wrong. From what I thus far understand, Mazembe wanted a penalty to be called for an alleged handball by the APR, but the referees would not give it. Suddenly, one of the Congo players went after the head referee, chasing him until he caught up with him and finally, flying through the air in some sort of kungfu football move, kicked the ref in the leg and took him out. Security men rushed on, as did a random man watching the game. Things got a little crazy; everyone was standing up, trying to see what was happening. Some guys on the field were out of control. The huge screen kept replaying the situation, and everyone around us was talking and we were trying to figure out what would happen next. Having Fred and Bosco is super helpful, especially if combined with a nice man to sit behind you and explain things. Apparently this angry player was one of the best in Congo; it’s a bummer that he did this because his team was consequently kicked out and his reputation might be a little shaky now. So we won that game too, 1-0! Yay! And so now you may see why it is ironic that this stadium is named “Peace.”

While crawling through traffic on the way out, we saw one of the guys who works at the desk at our hotel. I find it so amusing that we can see people we know. At the Ambassador’s house we saw Patty Yoss again. I am beginning to love it here. Getting to be part of another culture’s daily life is so great and I can’t believe we’re halfway through. Going home will be bittersweet.

For supper we all ate at the hotel restaurant together. That was highly enjoyable. I love our long suppers together. They remind me of the times back at Baylor when some of us sit at supper for hours in the Brooks Great Hall, simply being in each other’s presence. I think Brooks and Rwanda and Africa have a lot to teach the United States.


Things of note:
• A few of us began to realize how atrocious our posture is and so now we try to focus on it every once in a while.
• The quote thing is starting to catch on.
• People on this trip are hilarious.
• A high-five from a little kid can put a smile on even the most reserved person’s face.
• I need to find Rwandan music.
• Diplomacy is sounding pretty good right now.
• I miss football. (the real kind)